Here’s my attempt at Bocage. I wanted something quick to make that gave the flavour of Bocage without spending hours on a couple of sections or a fortune on various foliage. So I used my “D” shaped wood sections cut up into 6 x 8inch lengths. About 2 hours to make these in total. the wood is about 1 and a third inches wide by about a fifth of an inch deep in the middle, with bowed edges. Strong and light. But not cheap as it is for decorative purposes.
First use some sandpaper to smooth the cut edges and then add glue to the top:
Next up, I glued on some coarse sand (this stuff happens to be the blue ornamental type that I have a lot of in a 2 litre tub):
I then painted them a brownish colour with a small tester pot of brown emulsion paint ( I wouldn’t bother doing this again – just go for grey):
Then painted with a grey emulsion from a sample tester pot:
Once dry, I used “dead white” vallejo game color paint to drybrush the surface of the stones. It got a bit to white in places so I used a drybrush of grey to tone it back down. The rocks are a lot more obvious now. Shame most will disappear, but that seems to be the thing about bocage, it is mainly vegetation shooting out of the rock and earth:
Then I used pva glue and a sprinkle of GW ‘Scorched Grass’ static grass:
Finally I used my glue gun to fasten on various colours of lichen to the bases. These came from Woodland Scenics bags I have had for a while now (Light Green L162 and Autumn mix L165) from an OO gauge railway project.
Here are some shots with my German tanks and a section of road (track) completed recently and seen in another post:
I just checked the count of visits to the site and realised it had passed 2000. Just to say a big thank you to all who have dropped by over the last few months to check out the painting and modelling.
By way of an update, I am still waiting on Decals and decal solution from the UK supplier Maelstrom. That’s after having been let down by Wayland Games, who just refunded the price of items they couldn’t supply. The only suppliers I really like using are Maelstrom and ebay’s Trolltrader as both are reasonably priced and importantly consistently reliable. As soon as they arrive I can get the decals attached and will post on the results.
Other projects have had to go on hold for household decorating chores. A very different kind of painting! I don’t think dunkelgelb quite makes the grade on the house walls.
Its been quieter over the last few days in the run up to Easter. Add to that a round of flu and conjunctivitis and I haven’t done anything for a few days. I just wanted to add in some pictures of scenery I have been working on in between painting the figures recently.
I had some strips of hardboard (see gallery below) that came out of flat packed furniture and had been saving since last year for a suitable project.
1) Use some filler or glue to create a slightly bumpy/rutted surface along the board. Leave to dry. Note: I used a “hard as nails” glue gun cartridge. They are great for basing models as well.
2) Paint the hardboard a mid-grey (I had a sampler pot from my local DIY store
3) Paint a wash of 50/50 dark brown paint (I used Vallejo Game Color Charred Brown in this case) onto the grey surface. Leave to dry.
4) Use a stronger dark brown wash along the edges of the board. Leave to dry.
5) Optional: use a “realistic water pour-on effect for puddles in the tracks of the road). I used some Woodland Scenics solution for this on one or two of the Track sections (only a little as an experiment). It seems to take a couple of hours to dry.
6) Use PVA glue along the edges of the road and then sprinkle on some static grass. Leave to dry.
7) Ready to roll!
Tracks: As above but I had a pot of a truffle brown colour to use to give a different surface colour. It certainly looks different to the more tarmac-like surface of the roadway.
One of the tracks was cut in half but at an angle so a kink in the road could be created, but leaving the option of putting them back together as a straight section.
I really need to work on some curved sections but will need my electric jigsaw for that. Another time.
Wheat Field:The cheapest piece of coir matting I could find was 3.99 from Argos. I cut it into four equal rectangles with a stanley blade about the same size I see used on sites such as WWPD in their battle reports. Seems to work well. Put them next to roads and take a look. I haven’t treated the edges yet to stop fraying. I need to revisit this. The edge is a greyish colour anyway (being a rubbery plastic material)….
I have some “D” shaped wood strips (2 of) to make about 16 feet of hedgerow (see gallery below). This stuff is an inch and a third wide and about 1/5 inch deep in the centre. It should be strong enough to form a base for bocage type hedgerow without bowing. I am not aiming for really high bocage (like the Terrain Guy), more the scale seen in WWPD battle reports (I guess this is WWPDLuke’s…) – they all look really great to me. I am looking forward to cutting the wood up and getting into more scenery building.
After that I need some woods and hills…. now some piccies….
Here’s the first 700 points of US 3rd infantry division.
It consists of:
HQ (2 x Carbine teams) plus two sniper stands.
Combat: Rifle Platoon – 3 squads including Command team and Bazooka team
Support: Sherman Tank platoon – 4 tanks.
To expand it further I need to add in the Assault (pioneer) Rifle platoon to make it “legal”. My aim is to get some scenery together for a 600 point battle versus the Axis HG Heavy Recon (link).
Vallejo Game Color range:
Helmet: 72064 Yellow Olive
Flesh: 72100 Rosy Flesh
Jacket: 72061 Khaki
Base Edging: 72063 Desert Yellow
Webbing: 72035 Dead Flesh
Boots: 72043 Beasty Brown
Rifles: 72043 Beasty Brown and 72054 Gunmetal Metal
Pants: 72040 Leather Brown
Body: 72064 Yellow Olive
Tracks: 72045 Charred Brown
Highlight drybrush: 50/50 mix Yellow Olive and 72001 Dead White
Shading: ArmyPainter Strongtone
Matting: GW Purity seal (matt varnish spray)
I have a few issues to mention. I think that overall the use of the strongtone dip has maybe taken away some of the differences in the colours used on the infantry uniforms. In future I may consider using another technique. Second, the tanks seemed to benefit from a very light highlighting drybrush around edges and raised items this is complimented I think with the strongtone dip as that has run very slightly down the sides of the tanks to make a contrast from the top highlight down the centre basecoat to the bottom with the browner tones. I guess it depends what light you view the models in. I like the effect anyway.
Third, I am not too pleased with some of the models, varnishing has highlighted the fact that there are some obvious joins on the US infanty models that run through the helmets and in a few cases down the face. This makes it hard to remove flash in the first place without damaging the models head. Some of the worst flash is on the backs of the prone LMG gunners.
These US models are not a patch on the Axis models I painted up last time. I guess they are older models? In all, although I used the same techniques on the infantry as I did on the Axis infantry, the details on many of the US models seems to be a bit lacking.